Se diamo ascolto ai mille allarmi che ci arrivano da riviste mediche e società scientifiche ci sarà un futuro fatto di mini-porzioni e spuntini low cal, cibi a basso contenuto di grassi, ma addizionati di antiossidanti, steroli e omega 3. Eliminando l’alcol – se si esclude una minima quantità di vino rosso, perché ricco di antiossidanti – e dedicando il tempo libero a jogging, spinning, Gag, e altre attività destinate a rimodellare il corpo e allontanare il rischio infarto. Ne vale la pena? Qualcuno comincia a ribellarsi.
Come il New York Times che ha messo in prima pagina l’ultimo diktat del “journal of the American Medical Association”, che propone come ricetta di lunga vita una drastica restrizione calorica, «arrivando a suggerire», si scandalizza il Nyt
«un consumo di 890 calorie al giorno, meno della metà di quanto consumi a cena un americano medio»
se queste sono le condizioni per arrivare a 90 anni, non sarà meglio accontentarsi di 85? Succede così che gli umani sentano il bisogno di un libretto di istruzioni per alimentarsi in modo corretto.
«I neonati sono capaci di autoregolarsi, sanno da soli quando hanno mangiato abbastanza. Ma è un istinto che perdiamo da grandi, soffocato dal confronto con gli altri e dai messaggi che ci arrivano da media e pubblicità»,
spiega Patrizia Bollo, dietista e docente all’Università di Milano, autrice del recentissimo “Dietetica. Manuale di sopravvivenza nella giungla delle diete” (Ponte alle Grazie, 2006). Proprio la dieta, una dieta qualunque, non importa quanto sbilanciata o irrazionale, sembra alla maggior parte degli italiani la scorciatoia ideale per risolvere i propri problemi di immagine.
«Mettersi a dieta sembra facile, e infatti. Quasi tutti prima o dopo ci provano. Che ottengano risultati duraturi è un’altra faccenda».
Chi scherza con un processo complesso come la nutrizione rischia di pagarla cara, con squilibri metabolici e altri disturbi. Come i danni a fegato e reni o le carenze nutrizionali che possono derivare dalle tanto osannate diete a basso tenore di carboidrati, che vietano una fetta di pane, ma sdoganano i grassi animali.
«Ci sono diete nate per malati,come la Ornish, un regime poverissimo pensato per cardiopatici obesi, o l’Indice glicemico che valuta l’impatto sulla glicemia degli zuccheri contenuti negli alimenti e sta alla base di diete popolarissime come la Zona, ma demonizza alimenti come le carote, perché i pochi carboidrati che contengono hanno un indice glicemico elevato»
prosegue Bollo. Eppure uno studio realizzato in Italia dall’Università del Texas mostra che anche persone obese possono essere in buona salute. E già nel 1998 un editoriale dei “New England lournal of Medicine” avvertiva che
“finché non disporremo di informazioni più precise sui pericoli generati dal sovrappeso e sul rapporto rischi-benefici delle diete dimagranti, dobbiamo ricordare che la cura per l’obesità può essere peggiore del male. Per chi non è gravemente obeso, poi, forse il gioco non vale la candela: è emerso di recente da una serie di studi importanti che una dieta povera di grassi e ricca di fibre non garantisce protezione nei confronti di tumori del colon e del seno, infarti o ictus. La maggior parte delle ricerche indica che l’aspettativa di vita maggiore coincide con un peso normale, in genere corrispondente all’altezza meno 100. Mentre sia il sovrappeso sia la magrezza corrispondono ad aspettative di vita sensibilmente più limitate»
spiega Caputo. Gli allarmi relativi ai pericoli dell’eccessiva magrezza, però, restano inascoltati; prosegue lo psichiatra :
«Il problema è che i messaggi che arrivano dalla scienza si prestano a essere manipolati dal mercato che ne coglie, e ne sfrutta, i toni più suggestivi, cancellando le sfumature di cui è fatta la ricerca»
E vero che alcune specialità mediche in cui è più facile valutare rischi e benefici, come la cardiologia o l’ortopedia, promuovono senza mezzi termini la magrezza,
«ma sarebbe sbagliato tradurre in assoluti queste indicazioni, e in prescrizioni cliniche dati che hanno solo valore statistico»,
commenta Caputo:
«Oggi sappiamo che l’ideale è una dieta il più possibile variata. Il rischio però è che questi messaggi, oltre a generare stress, influenzino i soggetti più fragili, portandoli a sviluppare fobie verso alimenti sentiti come pericolosi o a cercare ossessivamente ciò che fa bene».
Un atteggiamento equilibrato sembra roba da perdenti ai forzati del wellness. Gli stessi che traducono il sacrosanto invito a fare attività fisica, iscrivendosi al corso più innovativo disponibile in palestra. O infilandosi un completo tecnico e slanciandosi per i viali della città. Incuranti di studi come quello realizzato dal Dipartimento di Scienze della salute dell’Università di Genova, che mostra come allenarsi in città aumenti l’intossicazione da biossido d’azoto, a rischio di danneggiare e irritare il tessuto polmonare, oltre ad abbassarne le difese immunitarie. Succede quando la voglia di sacrificio prevale sul buonsenso:
«Ci sono studi serissimi che confermano l’efficacia preventiva dell’attività fisica: ma si parla di un’attività regolare e sottomassimale, non di sforzi estremi»
spiega Stefano Aglieri, specialista in medicina dello sport. Il bello è che tanti sacrifici, nel migliore dei casi, non servono a niente. Solo con un attività costante e sottomassmale si attiva il metabolismo aerobico che facilita il consumo di grassi e aiuta a bruciare calorie, oltre ad allenare gradualmente muscoli, cuore e polmoni.
«Mentre la cosiddetta aerobica, intesa come ginnastica, lo spinning e altre attività che stressano il sistema cardiovascolare non servono a dimagrire»
chiarisce Aglieri: le poche calorie consumate si recuperano velocemente con il piatto di pasta che ci concediamo a cuor leggero perché abbiamo fatto ginnastica.
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